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- Planting Tree Peony
- Site Selection:
Please take time to prepare your planting area. In return
you will receive a lifetime of enjoyment. In 10 years, most
plants will grow to 4'x4'. If planting a group of tree peonies,
allow at least 4 to 5 feet between them. Do not plant closer
than 8-10 feet from large trees, where tree roots will compete
with the peonies for nutrients and water. Choose a location
with 4-6 hours of direct sun, or dappled sun/shade all day.
Full sun will make the flowers fade rapidly. Full shade
will result in weak and very slow growth. Good drainage
is essential. In a lowland during the summer where accumulated
rain water can cause root rot, it may be fatal. However,
you can provide better drainage by planting it on a gentle
slope or in a raised flower bed.
- Preparing the Soil:
Chinese tree peony likes loamy soil with high humus content
to a depth of at least 2 feet. It grows best in soil with
a ph of 6.5 to 7.5.
- Watering:
Water your peonies when nature does not provide enough rain.
Tree peonies do not have watering needs like roses or other
perennials. They are woody shrubs native to northern China,
which receives about 30 inches of rain per year. Water your
peonies thoroughly right after planting. Then, 3 to 5 days
later, water them again to be sure that the roots and the
soil are properly connected and there is no draft. Once
established, tree peonies are drought tolerant plants. In
early spring when the leaves appear, start to water the
peonies 2 to 3 times before blooming, then, 2 to 3 times
after blooming before the summer's heavy rainfall. In the
summer, water them when it is dry, preferably in the early
morning. Do not water them in midday during the summer when
the sun is very hot. Excess water will suffocate the roots
and is the leading cause of plant failure. Do not plant
near auto-sprinkler systems that keep the soils continuously
moist. Do not water until soil is dry below the surface
and try not to wet leaves when watering to prevent fungus.
Climates of hot summer temperatures with little or no rain
at all will require more attention to watering then those
areas that get some rainfall. Peonies in root control bags
will require more watering attention than tree peonies planted
in the ground.
- Fertilizing:
Do not fertilize the plants when you first put them in the
ground. Fertilize them in the second year. The first time,
in the spring after the leaves are out, 15 to 20 days before
blooming; the second , within 15 days after blooming; the
third time, before dormancy in late fall. Use organic fertilizers
such as compost, well rotted manure, and cottonseed meal.
Spread fertilizer around the plant and work it into the
soil. Water them after fertilizing. Do not use fresh manure.
- Spring Care:
In areas of damp, cold spring weather, using a copper spray
will prevent fungus that discolors the leaves with black
spots later in the season. Use Basicop sold in most garden
centers, or Soap Shield from Garden's Alive ( tel. 812-537-8650).
Mix according to package directions. Use in early spring
when the buds start to open, 3 treatments, 10 days apart.
This will prevent spotting that shows up later in the season.
If you do see fungus in late spring or summer, remove heavily
damaged leaves. Late season spraying seems to have no effect
on peonies. Spraying must be used preventatively. This fungus
rarely kills the plant, but will slow its growth. If you
have a problem one year, remember to treat for it early
the following season.
- Summer:
The hot weather is a time of dormancy, with little or no
leaf growth. Plants are storing energy in the roots and
will make buds for next season in late summer. Continue
to fertilize plants until about one month before the frost
date in your area. Water plant when it seems dry 4-6 inches
below the surface of the soil; water deeply, allowing plant
to dry out again before the next watering.
- Fall & Winter Care:
About the time of the first frost, remove the leaves to
prevent any over-wintering of fungus. Do not cut the woody
stems; flowers bloom on old wood. Check for borer at this
time. You will sometimes find a hole drilled into the woody
stem on older plants. The pest known as the "Rose Borer"
will sometimes drill into the pith of larger stems. Cut
off affected area or take a thin wire and poke into the
hole, killing the larvae. Seal hole with white glue or clay.
Your tree peonies need to be protected if you have a very
cold winter (zone 3-4). Build a wire cage around a tree
peony, fill with leaves or hay, then wrap with landscape
fabric around the cage. This will let air circulate to the
plant, but protect it from the harsh winter. You also can
use snow to cover your tree peonies when they are small.
Mulch plant well in zone 4 and colder parts of zone 5. Warmer
climates seem to be fine with little or no mulch once plants
are established. Here in our zone 5b climate, we use just
a couple of inches of mulch on established plants.
- Pruning:
Oncer your tree peony is growing for several years and has
many branches, it may be necessary to cut out extra growth
in the interior of the shrub. Select 6 to 10 of the strongest
branches as the major stems of the plant. This will allow
the peony to concentrate its strength on flowering in its
main branches, rather than excessive leaf growth. It will
also eliminate chances for fungus to grow, allowing more
light and air to circulate in the plant. If you prefer to
see the wood of the tree peony at the base, you can prune
out leaf buds low to the ground. This is a Chinese style
of shaping. The natural habit for most Chinese tree peonies
is a very dense, spreading, rounded form, though some varieties,
like White Screen Reflects a Blue Jewel, Phoenix White and
Lotus that Shines in the Sun are naturally tall and woody
at their base.
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